Aluminum Cleaning Made Easy

[Tom Neitzel]

I'm finally getting caught up on some of my aluminum cleaning.  Just a few before and after pictures.  Aluminum is really easier to clean than you might think.  Each of us has our own views as to what the finished product should look like.  You can buff and polish aluminum to a mirror finish, but that's not always how it was sold.  I like to try to get it back to as close to original condition if I can.

What I use is the self-cleaning oven, cream of tartar, Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish, and a light buff with 0000 steel wool.

One caution, you need to know your oven.  It should run at about 900F.  Aluminum melts at 1,200F or so, lower with some alloys.  If your oven runs at 1,000F or more (it shouldn't, but might), it could melt a piece.  I've used mine enough to know that there isn't any danger.

First, handles off and a run through the oven.  Then into the hot cream of tartar solution to remove any corrosion for 30 minutes (the black coating or darkening of the surface that remains after the oven). I actually have it simmering.

Then I decide if any more work, other than a quick steel wool buff is needed.  Sometimes it is not.  You'll see an example.

So here are some pictures.

First, a aebleskiver pan.  There is some corrosion in the cups but it cleaned up pretty decently.  I did apply the Mother's to the top, it really helped clean, but the bottom was so nice after the cream of tartar I just left it.  I'm still working on the handle with the Formby's and Tung Oil.

Tom

[Tom Neitzel]

Here's a bunny (very early Nordicware), same process.  That white stuff you see on the before is light corrosion.

And a very very early Santa.  The darkening you see on the back of the before is pretty much dull black darkening.

They both came out pretty nice, both finished with Mother's and a light 0000 steel wool buff.  The Mother's and buff took about 15 minutes total.

The last picture shows that these do work.

I'll write something later and these is information on the members site regarding Plastics For Industry and the Bunny.  I will tell you though, if you see these items you may want to pick them up.  They are short run, modern rarities from around 1949-50.

Tom

[Russell Ware]

Tom,
After you have cleaned an aluminum piece, do you apply any oil or anything else to protect it from dirt or corrosion?
Thanks for the info.

[Tom Neitzel]

I don't.  If it is kept dry it stays pretty nice.  You could put a little carnuba wax on it if you wanted, or even a light coat of oil, then wiped dry.

[Jeff Friend]

Tom,

Now, as much as I like the Griswold molds, I have to say that the rabbit and Santa you show here are nice.  I really like the Art Deco style of the rabbit.

Jeff

[Tom Neitzel]

They are easy to look at.  Here's a similar one (size and design) but hammered from Kanter.  I don't know who was looking over who's shoulder but there is quite a resemblence.  I think Nordicware was a little earlier but both are post-WW2.

Tom

[Tom Neitzel]

I had the cream of tartar out again today finishing up a bunny and a couple santas when I used another cleaning tool I had forgotten about.

A dry paper towel.  After all is done, a buff with a dry paper towel does wonders on aluminum.

Here's a Lustre Aluma bunny that spent 30 minutes in a cream of tartar bath, cleaned with Mother's, wiped off with a soft towel, then buffed with a paper towel.  A natural shine that I like.

Tom

tom