De-chroming a Skillet

[Al Andrews]

Has anyone ever de-chromed a cast iron skillet with any sucess?  

I have a Chrome Wagner Ware Sidney -O- #1054 smooth bottom skillet that I want to strip or trade for one without the plating.

Al

[C. Perry Rapier]

Al, that question has been asked on here somewhere before. You might want to do a search and see if you can find it. Also, the question has been asked about rechroming. So, to rechrome or dechrome, that is the question.

[Al Andrews]

I was sure I had seen it to but could not fine anything.  I sure don't want to spoil a great pan, but I don't collect chrome.  I do have some info on electro-deplating but it sound riskey!  That is why I offered to trade someone.

Al

[Roger Barfield]

Al, If you find the answer let me know.  I've got some as well that have lost most of their nickel plating.   Although I guess you could just season over it and use as is.

[Ed Allspaugh]

I was going to try de-plating, but the skillet I was going to experiment on some guy bought. .. How? ... Reverse the polarity and keep a close eye on it. I don't know, but I thought it was worth a try. Just don't let it eat the iron.

[C. Perry Rapier]

Ed, I've never used vinegar for taking rust off but would it work and as you say, "keep a close eye on it"?

[Al Andrews]

I have some info on deplating that uses a solution of 2 parts water to 1 part muriatic (swiming pool) acid.  BAD STUFF!  You must be very careful with this stuff -- "add acid to the water not the reverse".  Reverse the polarity and watch very close!!!  I will try it if no one wants the chrome plated skillet.

Al

[C. B. Williams]

Al, You do add the acid to the water. It is common for cleaning brick. Not that bad when diluted. Wear protection, and rinse really good. C B

[Greg Stahl]

YES please see above regarding acid and water!!!

Always always.....


[size=18]ADD   ACID to WATER!!!![/size]

never never never add water to acid, as the process is exothermic and will immediately cause the water to boil and you will get boiling water and acid flying every where and you will get injured!!   Always were eye protection when working with acid, including vinegar!!

[Al Andrews]

Greg, you are VERY right -- acid into water NOT water into acid.  

I am playing with the process.  Sure hope I don't distroy my skillet.  First problem, you will draw a lot more current with the water/acid bath that with the regular cleaning bath.  I have a veriable ac power supply (0 to 120 volts) that I pluged my battery charger into.  I start at o volts ac and go up until I am at max for my charger (10 amps).  I am using a stainless steel wire made into a circle to as the cathode for the process.  I tried using a straight rod and found the deplating was limited to the area next to the rod only.  I will start with the stainless this am and will let you know how it works!  

Al

[Roger Barfield]

When I took chemistry in high school, the teacher said to remember it this way.  Think of acid as a hot stove.  If you pour water on a hot stove it will boil over.  So you always add the acid to the water.  I've always been able to remember it that way.

[Steve_Stephens]

Your Wagner skillet is probably nickel plated Al.  I've not seen chrome Wagner.  My limited quest for information on how to deplate told me that chrome is much easier to remove than nickel.  I don't think the process is one that you can undo by "backing up" (reversing the process of plating) but I may be incorrect.  I had a deplated chrome Griswold sm. TM skillet that still had the nickel from underneath the chrome left on it after supposedly being deplated.  You should check with a plating shop to see what they say.  Nickel can't be impossible to remove since so many old kerosene lamps have been deplated to give a brass lamp.  But taking nickel off iron may be a different thing altogether.  Let us know what you find out and what works or harms the skillet.

Steve

[Al Andrews]

Steve, I think you are right, it is not chrome.  I am having problems and will report back later.

Al

[John Knapp]

I have seen a few skillets that have been de-plated and the final result is "different".  somewhere along the line of de-plating the piece loses its natural patina and really never does look "right" after it.  also, the skillets I have seen are a bit more grainy that regular black iron.  I don't know whether the process does this or they were cast that way.
John

[Al Andrews]

John, I am not complete with the deplating yet, but I would say you are right. Keep tuned!

Al

[Al Andrews]

Well folks, next time I would take it to a "pro" for deplating!!!!  It was a shame to destroy good skillet.  From my standpoint there won't be a next time as I don't collect "plated" iron.  I made a mistake on this eBay purchase -- didn't ask the RIGHT question.

Good luck to anyone else trying the process.

Al

[Steve_Stephens]

Al, tell us your process and chemicals, etc. to destroy (deplate) the skillet and how it was affected.  Too bad it didn't work.
Steve

[Al Andrews]

Sorry for the late reply -- I was at the Bonneville Salt Flats for "Speed Week".  Thinking I had chrome to remove, I used a recommended electro-stripping solution of 2 parts water and 1 part muratic acid.  I used my battery charger to apply the stripping current -- item (+) and cathode (-).  I had to use a adjustable ac power supply to control the battery charger current -- this process draws much more current than electro-cleaning.  I was drawing 10 amps (charger max) at about 30 volts ac input voltage to the charger.  The plating was not being remove???

Then someone mentioned that the skillet was most likely nickel plated, so I changed processes.  The second process (for nickel removal) is made up of 1 part distilled water and 3 parts battery acid (added slowly).  This process got to the exposed cast iron "righ now" without removing much nickel.   Bottom line, don't buy plated unless you want plated!  Al

[Steve_Stephens]

 This process got to the exposed cast iron "righ now" without removing much nickel.  

Al, are you saying that the solution started to eat the exposed iron (where the plating had worn away already) and without removing any of the remaining nickel?  Was it starting to pit or wear away the exposed black iron?

I have been told it's very hard to remove nickel but easy to remove chrome.  The two metals are not "similiar" but entirely diffferent beasts and do not react the same to chemical treatment I don't think.

But, if nickel is so hard to remove, how do they easily remove nickel from brass (lamps, etc.)?  Perhaps the brass won't be eaten by the chemical but iron will or they use a different chemical process to strip nickel from brass than can be used safely on iron?

I like nickeled Griswold cookware with its polished surface & black iron insides.  The remaining old, patinated nickel just shows the pan's age.  Chrome pieces don't age so nicely plus their cooking surfaces are plated all over.

Steve

[Jerry Cermack]

I used a recommended electro-stripping solution of 2 parts water and 1 part muratic acid.

 The second process (for nickel removal) is made up of 1 part distilled water and 3 parts battery acid (added slowly).  

Al, Those quantities are much higher acid content than I've been told to use, especially the battery acid?...I cant remember exactly but I'll try to find the recipe I have.