What makes Griswold Great?

[Mark]

I am new to the society and I am trying to understand what makes Griswold outstanding?  Is there any reason why we could not manufacture as good if not better Cast Iron today with the latest technology and craftsmanship?  Please inform?

Can anyone compare a primo Griswold piece to a Staub?  Just trying to learn so forgive my ignorance.

thanks in advance

[Joe_Doucet]

well I would think now adays we do have the know how to make castiron as good or better but it would probly cost a lot to make it as good as griswold did or some of the old wagner peices , if you put a peice of griswold next to a peice of lodge that is made nowadays you would see a real big differince in the craftmanship of the two peices because they just want to make the new stuff as cheap as they can

[Harry Riva]

Part of the problem is what you have when you are done from a collectability standpoint. Technology can proabably make a Model T but when it is done you won't have an original Model T, you will have a very good modern replica, and from a collectability viewpoint it will never be as desirable as the original. There are a lot of very good, modern replicas of firearms, probably better than the original, but a modern Colt Walker, of Winchester 66, Sharps carbine etc., etc. are still replicas with a good user value but a collector value nowhere near the originals. Same thing for stamps, china, books, a 200 year old house, the Declaration of Independence, and on and on. At the end of the day you will own a modern reproduction.
Harry

[Troy_Hockensmith]

I think there are many issues involved here with quality of workmanship being high on the list. Todays process is a cost benifit thing. Produce as much possible in the shortest amount of time. With machines replacing the craftsman who used to provide the pride and TLC of producing a quality piece the workmanship is not there. Older pieces tend to have smoother sides than the actual cooking surface of todays pieces. I suspect it had to do with the type and quality of the sand used for making the molds. The finishing process of old is a step that has been changed over the years. The time it would take to do it today to the standard of yesteryear is not cost effective and the time consuming process is eliminated.  Lastly, in my research I have determined that the metal used today is for the most part recycled. With the event of  WW 2 recycling became the standard for iron where prior to the war metals were virgin. I suspect this has something to do with the quality of the iron used.
So, could you make a piece today to the standards of old. I believe the answer is a qualified maybe but the time, effort and resourses to do so would be to great to make it marketable. The demand and competition of today don't require it.

[Thomas_Callaway]

Good point about the iron Troy. I was going to post something in Cleaning & Restoring, but it seems to suit here.

I cleaned two lids at the same time in the electric soup yesterday. One was a Griwold #10 Button TM, the other a Wagner #9 Full Writing. Both were about equally crudded up. The Griswold came out a nice even gun metal gray while the Wagner was much lighter and showed a lot of discoloration spots all over the top side.

To cure this I usually go over the piece with 150 emory paper and a steel brush. The Wagner eventually evened out. After my low temp pre-seasoning they looked about the same. Obviously this is due to the difference in the iron used to cast the pieces. One thing really stood out in both pieces though: Quality. Which goes back to Mark's original question.

TC

[Troy_Hockensmith]

Tom,
You should really try Steve's method of taking a cleaned piece (prior to seasoning) an heat it to 450 and then let it cool to where you can handle it before seasoning. The results are amazing. It really evens out the color and results in a darker appearance when you are through. I do it to every piece I season.

[Greg Stahl]

Hock,
you using Crisco or ?

[Troy_Hockensmith]

Yes, I use the shortning. I really like the results. Once the shortning is applied I do 30 minutes at 400 and instead of removing it I just turn the oven off and let it cool with the piece still in there. The girls hate it cause it stinks up the house but I get a dark unifrorm color and it's not stickey at all when I take it

[Greg Stahl]

The girls hate it cause it stinks up the house

The only reason I am not doing this method :'(

[Troy_Hockensmith]

So what are you doing? I've been thinking of putting an oven in the garage. I will need to do some rewiring for that so I'm not quick to jump on that option.

[Troy_Hockensmith]

I just found these two links and while I don't take them for gospel they are good reading all the same and they kinda fit the original intent of this post.

http://www.simmonsauction.com/auctions/cast-irony.html

http://www.simmonsauction.com/auctions/marys-lamb.html

[Greg Stahl]

So what are you doing? I've been thinking of putting an oven in the garage. I will need to do some rewiring for that so I'm not quick to jump on that option.

If it is for me and display, then mineral oil.  I'm fixing up the basement and will do like Dave Smith has done and have my own oven and vent just for seasoning in the basement.  I just had all seven 1865 brick support columns replaced this week with steel/concrete lollies, next comes the French drain and then a new concrete floor.  Looks like my winter will be busy redoing the entire basement with new walls, etc.  FUNNY :-/

[Thomas_Callaway]

Tom,
You should really try Steve's method of taking a cleaned piece (prior to seasoning) an heat it to 450 and then let it cool to where you can handle it before seasoning. The results are amazing. It really evens out the color and results in a darker appearance when you are through. I do it to every piece I season.

Heat is my problem too. Sometimes I just have to warm the piece up a bit and smear on the shortening and wait a few days before I can even do the 250 method. I'll have to wait until the dead of winter to re-do some of the pieces that I'm just not satisfied with.

Another problem is rust in this climate. After washing and drying the piece you can see the light surface rust start forming right before your eyes. That Wagner I spoke of was rusty on top before I finished greasing the inside! 'Course its been 90 degrees here with a RH of 75%+ for a while. We don't build saunas in Georgia. ;D

TC

[ranwill]

I have a question on seasoning. No matter what I use, or how thick a layer I apply, I get numerous spots on the surface where the grease comes together in "dots". I've tried to do pieces upside down, and right side up. I've tried wiping after just a few minutes of heating thinking that I put too much on. I've tried Crisco, Pam, and other substances, but I always get the same result.

Any tips?

Randy

[Mark E]

 :) Thanks to all the responses this really starts to help me understand.

In summary it sounds like:

1.  Quality of materials - virgin vs recycled (I personally would not like cooking on an old engine block, where is the romance?)

2.  Finishes were high quality, smooth edges and outsides.

3.  Innovation in products that were brought to market.

I am ready to purchase my first Cast Iron Pam.  I am looking forward to more conversations in the future as I have found this website highly valuab.

thanks again,
mark

[Jerry Cermack]

Mark,
Welcome to this forum!......You will find a wealth of enjoyable information about cast iron here like I have.

[moosejaw]

Randy,

I use to have the same problem.  I apply a very thin coat, then wipe off with a paper towel.   Then I put it in the oven at 450-500 degrees for a half hour.  For pots and pans, I turn them upside down in the oven. Leave it in the oven to cool.   I don't have those "spots" appearing anymore.  It seems when you get too much shortening on, it pools into those dots, and hardens while in the oven.  Now sometimes I season my pieces twice.  Not every piece, just certain pieces.  Hope this helps.