Author Topic: Handle broke, but... (Read 5547 times)

Raymond Dube · « **on:** February 12, 2009, 03:44:48 PM »

I bought a #8 Martin S&R deep skillet I was planning on using as a chicken fryer, etc. as I have lids that should fit....BUT...it arrived with a broken handle. The handle is now an inch and a quarter long. I contacted the seller and am awaiting a reply.

Anyhow, as I'm looking at it, admiring it for what it once was, I thought what the heck, it can still be used (unless she wants it back and pays for me to ship it back)....kinda like a dutch oven. But how can I safely remove the stub? ...or at least straighted the jagged cut and make it smooth so that no one accidently cuts themselves on my 'one of a kind' Martin?

Any help/ideas would be appreciated....thanks...

Roger Barfield · « **Reply #1 on:** February 12, 2009, 03:54:37 PM »

You could always run a grinder along the handle to smooth out the sharp edges.

Ray Armstrong · « **Reply #2 on:** February 12, 2009, 03:55:20 PM »

I would grind it with a grinder. If it has a tab opposite the handle I think you could drill a hole in it and the stubb and find yourself some #9 wire to make a bail.

bd354 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 12, 2009, 05:56:17 PM »

Maybe cut off the stub with a sawzall and metal cutting blade. Hafta clamp it down though.

mississippi_slim · « **Reply #4 on:** February 12, 2009, 09:31:41 PM »

why not pay a few bucks and have it welded back on..for a user ...jimmy

Ron_Wheeler · « **Reply #5 on:** February 12, 2009, 11:18:03 PM »

Quote

why not pay a few bucks and have it welded back on..for a user ...jimmy

Ditto. If you wanted it just for a user why not have it welded back on. :-/

Raymond Dube · « **Reply #6 on:** February 12, 2009, 11:39:42 PM »

No assist tab otherwise it would be a dutch oven w/bail 8-)

Welding it back on is a thought IF I get to keep it...esp since I buy everything with the intention of using it (remember, I'm NOT a collector...yet LOL)....hmmm.....wonder if the mechanic at work can weld it [smiley=scratchchin.gif]

I did hear back form the seller....she apologized profusely and asked me to send her a pic of the damage for her records...I also gave her better packing instructions as she has more cast iron to sell.

Jesse and Kim Dunfee · « **Reply #7 on:** February 13, 2009, 08:10:22 PM »

I was taken to task when I was but a pup here about the welding of cast iron. Make sure your guy knows what hes doing or you will wind up with more cracks then you can shake a stick at. ...Thats all I'm going to say about that :-X

Dwayne Henson · « **Reply #8 on:** February 13, 2009, 10:53:57 PM »

I'd go with welding it. I had the same thing happen on this Sidney skillet. The bottom is the worse side. The top side is ground even and smooth. It gets used now. I would hate to try to pick up a hot skillet with an inch handle.

Chris Stairs · « **Reply #9 on:** February 13, 2009, 11:11:02 PM »

Ray,
I bought a hotplate on Ebay that arrived with broken legs. >:(
Poor packing! Even so, I only paid $20 for the thing, and would rather have the broken stove than the money back.
A friend at work is a master welder, certified for steam pipes, all his welds are subject to X-ray inspection. Nobody welds as good as him, and he told me that welding was not the answer. He brazed them for me. The brass worked great. I wouldn't use it on the cooking surface, but for a handle or any other non-food contact surface it's fine. Easier to file down to look nice, and since it uses much lower temps, no tempering, which could make the iron brittle near the repair. He said welding could open the door to stress cracks.

Raymond Dube · « **Reply #10 on:** February 13, 2009, 11:16:59 PM »

Thanks again guys. That looks like a pretty nice weld Dwayne.

Thanks for the tip Jesse. That's my main concern...a bad weld and the pot becomes totally useless.

And you all can yell at me...I'm a big boy and my feeling don't get hurt very easily LOL Everyone has an opinion and they are entitled to that opinion...no matter how wrong they are :D

I sent the person pics this afternoon and am awaiting a reply as to what the next step is. She said she has other pieces if I wanted to exchange it, or work out a refund, etc...not sure if she wants to pay to have the pan shipped back to her or not yet...she seems willing to make amends so I'm hoping this turns out alright so that we both reach an agreable solution.

Raymond Dube · « **Reply #11 on:** February 13, 2009, 11:27:40 PM »

Man, I gotta learn to type faster...Chris snuck in an answer while I was replying. Again, thanks for the info. And you stressed exactly what my concern about welding is. I used to be involved in drag racing and know that no one wants to weld cast iron if it's going to be put under stress/pressure/high temps, etc...

...I paid $35 for the pan, which I thought was a good price....other than the handle, it's in very nice shape...nice smooth inside, etc...like I said, I bought it to use anyway. I thought of gringing the stump so it's smooth and using it anyhow...as along as I don't have to lift it while I'm cooking, it should be fine...

...ohhh well...guess I'll wait and see what her plans are before doing anything to it...

Chris Stairs · « **Reply #12 on:** February 13, 2009, 11:48:49 PM »

Ray,

Cast iron can be welded successfully, and retain near full strength if annealed properly.
Just seems a bunch of trouble to heat it with a torch before welding, then to use the torch again after welding to allow it to slowly cool over a period of several hours to prevent stress. that's how they do it with engine blocks, using a special oven, designed for this.
If you get to keep it, I'm sure it could be brazed easily.

Ron_Wheeler · « **Reply #13 on:** February 13, 2009, 11:51:35 PM »

Ray, not all welders are cast iron welders. Some think they are but you want to make sure, if you decide to weld the handle, that you find a welder that knows what he's doing. I spent most of my working career working for a Caterpillar Dealer here in Northern California. Heavy equipment, as you know, breaks. We had a welder that was the only one in Northern Calif. that could weld cast iron and you could not tell where he welded it, the man was damn good. One of the things I learned from him was when you weld cast iron you have to bring the whole iron up to temp, that will relieve the stress when its welded. He had a rose bud going the whole time he welded, heating the area around the weld as he welded. I'm not a welder but that handle can be welded and if done correctly will be as strong as original. How its finished is another story but with a die grinder you should be able to smooth it out so its hardly noticable. Or, you can do like Chris said and have it brazed. Just had to say that.

Chris Stairs · « **Reply #14 on:** February 14, 2009, 12:03:06 AM »

Quote

Ray, not all welders are cast iron welders. Some think they are but you want to make sure, if you decide to weld the handle, that you find a welder that knows what he's doing.

Ron,

My welding friend is very good, and has many years of experience. He knew better than to mess with cast. There are people who do it well, but they are few and far between. Your description of using the rosebud torch is exactly how he explained to me it should be done. Another guy offered to weld it up for me. He said "No problem, cast is easy to weld." I never let him near it.
Welding would be stronger, and certainly the only solution for a dozer. Brazing is cheap, easy and certainly strong enough for a skillet handle.

Dwayne Henson · « **Reply #15 on:** February 14, 2009, 10:24:38 AM »

I am fortuante that I know a guy who welds everything. He heated the skillet I think he said 400-500 degree before welding it. He doesn't like that weld himself. He was planning on finishing the bottom of the handle so the weld wouldn't be noticeable. As good as he is I was afraid in time with seasoning would hide the repair, so I asked him to leave it like it was. Brazing is also a good option for a handle. John is so good at welding I forget about other methods. The Girl Scout Camp had a #10 Griswold Camp Oven get droppped and cracked the side of the oven, and he was able to weld that up for them, that was 4 years ago. It is still going strong. You have to look really hard at that oven to even see that repair. ;)

Chris Stairs · « **Reply #16 on:** February 14, 2009, 11:30:28 AM »

Dwayne,

I agree that either method would work fine with a skillet handle. My welding guy does weld cast too, when he thinks it's the better choice. The reason he didn't want to weld the hotplate legs is because they are only a 1/16th of an inch thick.
Like you, I decided not to smooth up the bottom of the repair. My intention was to paint them, and I didn't want to hide the repair. The stove will look fine from the top when assembled, but the repair will be visible to a close examination of the bottom. I might sell it someday, and wouldn't want someone to misrepresent it's condition, after I no longer own it.

Jesse and Kim Dunfee · « **Reply #17 on:** February 14, 2009, 03:37:29 PM »

Chris,
I have used JB WELD for things like that and believe me the leg will break in a different place then the JB WELD. If its a clean break you won't be able to see where the break was. I have done it. And the stove leg will not break were you used the JB Weld. Believe me. OOPs. Forgot I wasn't going to say anymore one this subject ;D

Chris Stairs · « **Reply #18 on:** February 14, 2009, 03:47:29 PM »

Jesse,

Sounds like I should have talked to you before I had the repair done. Oh well, I'm happy with the results I got with the brass.

Raymond Dube · « **Reply #19 on:** February 14, 2009, 11:49:29 PM »

Jesse, do you think the JB Weld would work for the handle? The lady is sending me pics of other items she has available....sounds like she's going to let me keep the Martin, but she hasn't said it for sure, yet.

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Author Topic: Handle broke, but... (Read 5547 times)

bd354

mississippi_slim

Ron_Wheeler

Ron_Wheeler